制鞋业标准流程之-成型篇(图文并茂).ppt

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1、鞋面與大底成型ASSEMBLE UPPER&O/S,依照鞋子結構的不同,通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程:According to the different shoe construction,there are two kinds of assembly procedure,strobel&lasting.結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程.For the lasting construction,there are 3kinds of procedure,one time lasting&two times lasting or more than two time lasting

2、.這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過程:Here only show the one time lasting procedure for example to know the assembly procedure:,1.浸 康 特SOAK TR COUNTER,1,浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。Pay more attention to the bottom of TR counter cant be soaked.2用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中,只要除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久過久會使康特軟化。Clip the counter with forceps a

3、nd then put it into 513 primer.Dont soak counter too long to avoid the counter from soften.3康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。Put the counter on the iron shelf after soaking.4康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過15分鐘。Make the counter dry not more than 15 minutes.5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of glove&respira

4、tor.,Applied Tooling:,鐵網 Iron meshwork,手套Glove,鑷子 forceps,鐵架Iron shelf,1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業,剪斷連線,放鞋面入流水帶上.Take the upper from the shelf and attach pair number sticker,then snip the thread that make one pair of upper together,at last put upper on conveyer belt.2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面.Dont break the upper w

5、hen snip thread.3.注意鞋面要配雙.Note:Need make the upper pair.,2.准備放鞋面PREPARE UPPER,Applied Tooling:,剪刀 scissor,1.取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下.Prepare a little piece of foam or cloth and fold then nip it with clamp.Soak a moment before cementing.2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠Take the last from the shelf,

6、then cement around last bottom 10mm width with latex.3,刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位.During cementing,the left hand hold the last&the right hand hold clamp.Make sure to cement evenly and completely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.,3.楦頭底刷白膠 CEMENT LAST BOTTOM WITH LAT

7、EX,Applied Tooling:,夾子Clamp,膠壺 Glue pot,4.中底正面刷白水膠CEMENT THE INSOLE BOARD,1.中底整形,壓力30KG,時間5”.Mold the insole board with pressure 30kg&time 5”.2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子.Before cementing,the left hand hold the last&the right hand hold clamp.3.用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位.Take the insole board from the

8、 shelf,then cement around the top of insole board 15mm width with latex.Make sure to cement evenly and completely.4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品.The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.,Applied Tooling:,夾子Clamp,膠壺 Glue pot,5.鞋面後跟刷膠CEMENT HEEL UPPER,1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻,到位.不可積膠.Cement the both sides

9、 of collar lining and heel upper with 766N yellow glue.Make sure to cement evenly&completely but not amass into a pile.2,刷好膠的鞋面按規定在流水線上排放整齊,保持順暢的流程,流進烘箱。Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure smooth through oven after cement.3.設定烘箱的溫度為70度,時間1分鐘.Adjust the temperature 70&ti

10、me 1min.4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面.Let glue dry&soften the upper through the oven.,Applied Tooling:,刷子Brush,膠壺 Glue pot,鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠,過烘箱,6.貼後跟康特ATTACHE HEEL COUNTER,1.左手拿鞋面右手拉開內里.左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康特,先使康特腳平齊畫線,對准后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的上沿固定.Left hand hold the upper,and the right hand undraw the collar lining.The left still

11、hand hold the upper,and the right hand hold the counter as shown on the illustration No.2.At first make the bottom edge of counter align the mark line¢er mark,and press the bottom center portion of counter,then press the top center portion of it to fix the center position.3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿.Press

12、 the counter bottom from the center portion to both sides.4.5,固定康特外腰及內腰.Attach the lateral&medial portion of counter.6.貼滾口內裡並摸平.At last attach the collar lining&make it smooth.,4,固定康特外腰,3,固定康特下沿,5,固定康特內腰,2,固定后跟中心點,1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順,6,滾里貼死并摸平,7.後跟康特整形MOLD HEEL COUNTER,1,裝上正確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱定型,溫度大約60度

13、,壓力5KG,時間大約8”.Set up the correct molding mold.Commonly for hot melt counter use the cool mold,for TR counter use the heat mold with temp 60&pressure 5kg&time 8 sec.2.將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相應的定型模上.Put the left&right upper with counter on the proper mould specially.3.使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心,再整型.Need back stitch 3-4

14、 stitches on the start&stop stitching portion.,定型機Back molding machine,定型模Molding mold,Applied Tooling:,8.貼中底ATTACH INSOLE,1,左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底,將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼.The left hand hold the last to make up the bottom,and the right hand hold the insole to make the center match the last,then attach the insole

15、on last from heel to front.2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合.Make sure the insole fit with last.,9.鞋面余皮刷膠CEMENT THE TOE LAST ALLOWANCE,1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的鞋面,均用PU膠刷鞋面余皮.Commonly for the shoe that only need be lasted one time,cement the last allowance with latex.For the shoe that need be lasted more than

16、one,cement the last allowance with PU glue.2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬.The left hand hold the upper,and the right hand hold the brush,cement the toe last allowance with width 10mm.3,刷膠要到位,均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Cementing should be complete&even but not too high or come out.Put it on the conveye

17、r belt through the oven after cementing.4,烘箱溫度設為80度,時間2分鐘.Adjust the temperature 80&time 2 min of oven.5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面余皮的膠水干一些.Make the glue for the lasting allowance dry through the oven,Applied Tooling:,刷子Brush,膠壺Glue pot,鞋面結幫余皮刷膠,過烘箱,10.鞋頭軟化SOFTEN TOP PORTION,1.調整鞋頭軟化模的溫度150-200度,時間8-10”.Adjust the

18、 temperature to150-200 and time 8-10”of mold for softening the upper.2.一般足球鞋或鞋面皮料較硬的鞋面需經過此流程軟化,以免結幫後鞋面花角.Commonly for the football shoe or the shoe that upper leather is too soft,both need through this procedure to avoid wrinkle after last.,Applied Tooling:,軟化機 Soften machine,11.前接幫TOE LASTING,Appli

19、ed Tooling:,1.設定正確的前幫機使用參數,壓頭壓力:35kg.壓著時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度.Set correct parameter for the toe lasting machine:Pressure:35kg,time:5 sec,temperature of wiper as the indoors.2.前抓的排放要與楦頭弧度相吻合.The shape of claw should fit the last.3.前幫時,中心點要對正,前爪要抓齊印刷線(點),余皮按印刷線作業.During toe lasting,make sure the center mat

20、ch the last&the claw of machine align the marking for lasting.Make sure the allowance follow the printing line.4.結幫後,頭莊高度要一致.Make sure the toe height consistent.,前幫機Toe lasting machine,12.插鞋叉,緊鞋帶INSERT SPACER&TIGHT SHOE LACE,1.插鞋叉,平齊鞋舌上沿.再緊鞋帶.Insert the spacer between the tongue&lace and make the to

21、p edge align the tongues.Then tighten the shoe lace.2.緊鞋帶後,用量版比對助帶口寬度是否正確.Check if the width of eyelet stay is correct with gauge board.,13.拉腰幫SIDE LASTING,Applied Tooling:,1.拉腰邦余皮需平齊中底印刷線.Side lasting must follow the printing line on the insole.2.結幫后內內外腰須緊貼楦頭余皮平順且均勻。After the allowance must be smoo

22、th&upper must fit the last on the medial&lateral portion.,鳥嘴鉗 Pincer,腰幫機 Side lasting machine,1,設定后幫機器正確參數,壓力35公斤,時間:5秒,掃刀溫度:室內自然溫度.Set the proper parameter of heel lasting machine with pressure 35 kilo,time 5 sec and temperature as the indoors.2.依訂單楦頭及後跟定型模更換掃刀(圓角楦頭用圓掃刀).Change to the proper wiper

23、of heel lasting machine as per the correct last&heel molding mold.(For round angle last,use the round shape wiper.3.壓完后幫后須對比后跟高度:相同號碼之后跟高度要一致.Need check the heel height to make sure its consistence for one pair after pressing.4.配雙放入流水帶,進入下一流程.Pair and put it on the conveyer belt to process the next

24、procedure.,Applied Tooling:,後幫機 Heel lasting machine,14.壓後幫PRESS HEEL LASTING,鳥嘴鉗Pincers,壓後幫,對比後跟高度,15.磨景ROUGHING,1,在磨景機上裝上正確的砂帶一般用40#-60#的,將余皮折縐磨平。Set the proper emery tape on the grinding machine,commonly 40#-60#.Rough the toe lasting allowance flat on the wrinkle portion.2,磨平后余留的粉屑須運用吹風槍吹干淨.Blow

25、the chipping clean with blower after roughing.3.磨景不可磨破鞋面不可有燒焦的現象砂帶須定時更換.Dont break the upper&burnt the upper during roughing.The emery tape need be changed on time.,Applied Tooling:,磨景機 Grinding machine,砂輪石 Emery wheel stone,16.余皮壓平PRESS THE LASTING ALLOWANCE FLAT,1,選擇正確的鐵板燒.Choose the proper iron p

26、late as the last construction.2,設定機器參數,對反毛皮版鞋面,鐵板燒溫度用室內溫度,皮料版溫度80度;壓力均為35公斤,時間10秒.Set the proper parameter of machine.For the suede version,the temperature of the iron plate is indoor;For the leather version,it need 80.For the both version,set the pressure 35 kilo,time 10sec.3,操作時將套楦鞋面放正放穩,不可歪斜搖晃.壓平

27、後放入流水線,送進烘箱.Make the lasted upper match the center line&stay stably,not allow to twist&roll.Put it on the conveyer belt through oven.4,烘箱溫度設為100度,時間4分鐘.Set the oven temperature 100&time 4 minutes.5,過此烘箱的目的,使鞋面定型.Keep the upper shape fit the last through the oven.,Applied Tooling:,壓平機Pressing machine

28、,鐵板燒Iron plate,17.CHECK前後高度,大底配雙CHECK TOE&HEEL HEIGHT THEN PAIR,1,經過加硫之套楦鞋面,放於平台上,CHECK其高度是否正確,並放入下一流程.Check the height of lasted upper and pair then put it to the next procedure.2.套楦鞋面及大底配雙標上流水號,放入流水線上.The lasted upper&unit sole pair and write down the pair number then put to conveyer belt.,查高度是否正確

29、:,水解筆hydrolyze pen,Applied Tooling:,標流水號,18.畫線GUIDE MARK,Applied Tooling:,1.設定壓力為4KG,調整放畫線模的水平度.Set the pressure to 4KG&adjust the guide marking level.2.畫線時先須標出鞋頭和后跟中心點以利于大底鞋面貼合時對正.At first make the toe&heel center on the upper to avoid the center comes off last.3.確保畫線要一致.Make sure the marking consi

30、stent.,水解筆hydrolyze pen,畫線模Guiding marking mold,畫線機Guiding marking machine,19.刻磨,吹灰BUFF&BLOW,Applied Tooling:,刻磨機 Buff machine,砂輪Emery wheel,吸塵機Dust collector,耳塞Earplug,1,選用正確的砂輪,進行刻磨,不能磨破皮料,不可燒焦.Use correct emery wheel to buff,and dont break the leather or burnt.2.將磨好的套楦鞋面,放入吸塵箱中進行吹灰.Put the lasted

31、 upper in dust collector to remove the flour.,20.大底/鞋面洗藥水O/S primer,1,大底藥水處理:PrimerO/S橡膠用白色1016A+1%B粉;雜色用1016A+2-3%B粉;White rubber O/S primer with 1016A+1%B;varied color rubber do with 1016A+2-3%;EVA需照光處理,白色用UV-11N 能量0.52 J/CM2,黑色用UV-8N處理,能量0.47J/CM2.時間均為10-12秒.EVA need treat with light,for white EV

32、A light with UV-11N energy 0.52 J/CM2,for black EVA do with UV-8N energy 0.47J/CM2;light time 10-12sec for both color.Shank用111YCN+2%RFE藥水處理Primer O/S:White rubber with 1016A+1%B;varied color rubber with 1016A+2-3%B;EVA with UV light.Primer Shanks with 111YCN+2%RFE.2.反毛皮,面皮用UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12處理,人造皮用11

33、1YCN+2%E-1000,網布不需藥水處理.Primer the suede and leather with UE-9SF+5-7%CL-12,for synthetic use 111YCN+2%E-1000,for mesh no need primer.3.在處理藥水過程中藥水不可太少或過量不可有外溢現象。處理後During primer,dont apply the primer too much or too little or come out.4.粘藥水的絲瓜布要經常更換.The towel gourd cloth soaked primer need be changed

34、often.,21.過烘箱THROUGH OVEN,1,鞋面在烘箱下層,烘箱溫度70-80度;底部配件在烘箱上層,烘箱溫度50-55度,時間均為2分鐘.Put the lasted upper on top layer of oven and set the temperature 70-80;Put the bottom on bottom layer of oven and set temperature 50-55.Heat time 2 minutes for both.2.過此烘箱的目的,烘干藥水.The purpose is to dry after primer.,22.第一次上

35、大底膠O/S FIRST CEMENT,1.鞋面是真皮(含反毛皮),不需刷一次膠;如鞋面是網布或人造皮,需刷一次膠用116NN+3-5E%-1000.For the leather upper including suede,no need first cement;For the mesh&synthetic upper,need first cement with 116NN+3-5E%-1000 glue.2,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Prepare the brush&glue.And the glue must be used up

36、in requested time&change the brush every half hour to prevent glue from amassing.3.用116NN+3-5E%-1000)刷大底一次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.First cement O/S with 116NN+3-5E%-1000 glue.Cementing should be even&complete and not come out.4.將大底整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.Put the O/S on the conveyer belt in order and into oven.5.鞋面烘箱溫

37、度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間4分.Set oven temp 70-80 for upper&50-55 for bottom,heat time 4 minutes.,23.大底刷二次膠SEC CEMENT O/S,1,准備好刷子和膠水,膠水要在規定的時間內用完,刷子每半小時更換一次,以免積膠.Prepare the brush&glue.And the glue must be used up in requested time&change the brush every half hour to prevent glue from amassing.2.用NP-580

38、+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6刷大底二次膠,刷膠要均勻,到位,不可溢膠.Sec cement O/S with NP 580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6.Cementing should be even&complete and not come out.3.鞋面結幫余皮刷NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6膠後,再貼上前掌填腹,最後在前掌填腹上刷膠.Cement the lasting allowance with NP-580+5-7%CL-12+1%HR-6,then attach the filler on the forefoot,at last cement t

39、he filler.4.將大底及刷膠後鞋面整齊地排放在輸送帶上送入烘箱.Put the O/S&lasted upper on the conveyer belt in order and into oven.5.鞋面烘箱溫度70-80度,底部烘箱溫度50-55度,時間5分.Set oven temp 70-80 for upper&50-55 for bottom,heat time 5 minutes.,大底二次刷膠,鞋面結幫余皮刷膠,貼填腹,填腹刷膠,24.貼大底ASSEMBLY O/S&UPPER,1,鞋面與大底從烘箱出來必須在30-35秒之內完成貼合動作.Take out the u

40、pper&O/S from oven,and need finish assembly in 30-35 seconds.2.鞋面與大底貼合前，先檢視鞋面與大底是否同一個號碼Need check if the size of upper&O/S consistent.3.貼合時先貼合鞋頭中心位置再貼外內腰部位及后跟.依照確認鞋的相對位置進行操作.First attach the toe center portion then lateral&medial portion,at last attach heel portion following the confirmation sample.

41、5.不可貼高膠線或外露膠線。.The marking for cement should not be exposed¬ be over.6.貼合動作完成后放在鋼板上檢查大底是否平穩。Need check if the finished shoe is smooth and flat.,1固定鞋頭,2固定鞋外腰,3固定鞋內腰,4,固定鞋后跟,5,用撬刀使大底鞋后跟弧度圓順,6,檢驗大底平穩度,25.用三合一壓機及上下壓機壓PRESS WITH UNIVERSAL&VERTICAL MACHING,1,在三合一壓機上,裝上相應的壓底模.Set up the correct pressing

42、 mould on the universal pressing machine.2,設定適當的壓力及壓機時間,通常三合一壓機壓力40KG/CM2,時間15秒;上下壓機壓力35KG/CM2,時間8-10秒.Adjust the proper pressure for vertical pressing machine,pressure:35KG/CM2,time:8-10 seconds.3.先用三合一壓機壓,再用上下壓機壓.First press with universal pressing machine,then do with vertical pressing machine.,A

43、pplied Tooling:,三合一壓機Universal pressing machine,三合一壓模Universal mould,26.除膠&補膠及畫線CLEAN GLUE&MARK LINE,1,壓機後檢查大底邊牆與鞋面是否有膠縫,如有,補膠後用工具將其壓貼牢固.Check if any gap between upper 時間:8分鐘.Put the finished shoe on the conveyer belt through the cool trunk to keep the shape of shoe.Set the cool trunk with the tempe

44、rature 0-5。C,cooling time:8 minutes,Applied Tooling:,注射器Injector,毛刷 Brush,清液Cleanser,27.解松鞋帶/拔楦LOOSEN LACE/DE-LAST,1,冷凍定型後,用鐵勾勾松鞋帶.注意不要勾壞鞋面及鞋帶.After cooling,make the lace loose with iron hook.Note:dont break the upper and shoe lace during loosening the lace.2.依照鞋子的形狀調整機器.Adjust the machine according

45、 to the shape of shoe.3.拔楦後,大底不能扭曲變形,及不平穩.需用手輕攝一下後跟使其保持後跟的型狀.Make sure the O/S not twist and not roll after de-last.In order to keep the heel shape,need press lightly the heel portion.,Applied Tooling:,拔楦機 De-last machine,解松鞋帶:,拔楦:,28.清潔鞋面及塞鞋墊PUNCH THE EYELET HOLE,1,清潔時,要依鞋面的材質選擇清洗潔.除去鞋面及底部的膠水用生膠片.C

46、hose the proper liquid for cleaning according to material of upper.Wipe out glue on upper For the real leather/mesh/synthetic material,first clean with water.如擦不干淨,真皮/人造皮用去漬水再清潔,網布可用清水+醋再清潔.注意不要用去漬水清洗網布,以免網布脫層.If still not dirty after clean with water,need clean with detergent again for the real lea

47、ther/synthetic,and do with water+vinegar.Note:dont clean mesh with detergent to avoid mesh from delaminating.2.清洗要撤底,Make sure to clean completely.3.貼鞋墊標,通常距鞋墊商標5mm處.再塞鞋墊.Attach the in sock label on the indicated position of in sock,commonly distance 5mm from the in sock logo.Then insert in sock.,清潔

48、鞋面:,貼鞋墊標塞鞋墊,29.整理鞋帶&塞紙團或鞋撐Coordinate Lace&Inserter wrapping paper or stuffer,1,整理鞋帶,使助帶口寬度正確,且鞋帶外露長度正確.Coordinate shoe lace to make sure the eyelet stay width&the shoe lace length from the last eyelet hole to lace tip correct.2.塞鞋頭紙或鞋撐.依鞋子的型狀,如拔楦後鞋面易塌陷的需塞鞋撐.Insert the wrapping paper on the forefoot

49、portion.According to the shape of shoe,if the upper easily collapse after de-last,need insert the stuffer.,整理鞋帶,塞鞋頭紙,30.清潔大底&烘線CLEAN O/S&HOT THREAD EDGE,1,用633BF+水把大底清洗干淨.Clean O/S with 633BF+water.2.烘外露的線頭.Hot the exposed thread edge.,清洗大底,烘線頭,1,核對成品鞋的SIZE.Check the finished size.2.3,准備相應SIZE內盒,并貼上

50、相應的內盒標,需貼在規定的位置.Prepare the shoe box plate of corresponding size to fold.Then attach the corresponding shoe box label on the indicated position.4.將鞋子用包裝紙包好,再裝入內盒.Pack the shoe with wrapping paper then put into the corresponding shoe box.,31.折內盒&包裝FOLD SHOE BOX&PACK,2.折內盒,3.貼內盒標,SIZE要與成品鞋一致,1.核對成品鞋SI