服装查货检验 成衣大货检验(2).ppt

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1、成衣大货检验,For the benefit of business and people,Prepared By:Longu ChenDate:22nd Sept,2005,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,了解成衣生产流程了解线迹与缝型了解如何比较样品了解尺寸测量了解成衣手工如何检查及疵点的描述,培训目的,“BUREAU VERITA

2、S PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,SUMMARY,1.生产流程2.线迹与缝

3、型3.样品比较4.手工检验,生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,1,机织成衣生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS

4、PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,分类,拉布铺料,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,机织成衣生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BURE

5、AU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,机织成衣生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,机织成衣生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION

6、WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,针织成衣生产流程,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,针织成衣生产流程,缝盘,织片织造,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSID

7、E YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,针织成衣生产流程,线迹类型,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,2,线迹类型,线迹 stitch 缝纫机机针在每次刺过缝料时，由一根或多根缝线，自连、互连或交织在缝料上而形成的一个单元。自连intraloop

8、ing是缝纫时，机针缝线的一个线环穿入其缝线本身形成的前面一个线环的连结方法；互连interlooping是缝纫时，先由弯针缝线穿入由机针刺过缝料后机针缝线所形成的线环，再由机针在缝料被送料后，再次刺过缝料时穿人弯针缝线所形成的线环的连结方法；交织interlacing是缝纫时，梭线穿入机针刺过缝料后机针缝线所形成的线环的连结方法。,线迹类型,根据ISO/DIS4915,线迹类型可以分为6大类.Class 100:单线链式线迹 Class 200:手缝线迹 Class 300:锁式线迹 Class 400:多线链式线迹 Class 500:包边链式线迹 Class 600:复盖链式线迹（复盖绷

9、缝线迹）,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Class 100:单线链式线,特点与用途:由单根针线穿过缝料自连形成的线迹。缝线正反两面外观不同。该种线迹容易从头至尾拆散,故通常用于暂时性的假缝。,Class 200:手缝线迹,特点与用途:由单根缝线在布面上下穿梭形成缝线。原先是手工缝线的主要形式,现在也可以由缝纫机完成。此种线迹适用于缝边

10、。,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Class 300:锁式线迹,特点与用途:由两个系统的缝线形成.针所带的面线与摆梭上的底线相互交织而成.此种线迹不易扯开,所形成的缝线正反两面外观相同,延弹性小于链式线迹.,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT

11、 DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,锁式线迹301示意图,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Class 400:双线链式线迹(多线链式线迹),特点与用途:通常由两个系统的缝线组成。由一根或多根缝针线和一根或多根

12、弯针线互连形成的线迹。缝线正反两面呈现不同的外观。双线链式线迹常用于缝边、省缝的缝合，裤子的后缝和侧缝，松紧带等受拉伸较多，受力较强的部位。,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,双线链式线迹401示意图,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISC

13、LOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,401 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,406 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO

14、NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,407 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Class 500:包边链式线迹,特点与用途:由若干根缝线相互循环串套在缝料边缘的线迹。根据组成线迹的缝线多少而称呼其名

15、（单线包缝、双线包缝六缝包缝）。其特点是能使缝料的边缘被包住，起到防止面料边缘脱散的作用。当缝迹受拉伸时，面线、底线之间可以有一定程度的相互转移，因而缝迹的弹性较好，故被广泛用于机织物的包边。三线包缝和四线包缝为最常用的机织制品服装的包边。五线包缝和六线包缝又称为“复合线迹”，由一个双线包缝同三线包缝或四线包缝线迹组合而成。其最大特点是强力大，可同时进行合缝和包缝，从而提高缝迹的密度和缝制的生产效率。,三、四线包缝机适用于弹性织物的包缝作业，五线包缝机适用于牛仔、帆布、皮革等织物的包边包缝作业。,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veri

16、tas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,503 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,504 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bur

17、eau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,514 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,516 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyr

18、ight Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Class 600:复盖链式线迹,特点与用途:通常由3个系统缝线形成。由两根以上针线和一根弯钩线相互穿套而成，有时在正面加上一根或二根装饰线，按曲折走向贯穿于正面全部线迹与下面互连的线迹。绷缝线迹的特点是强力大，拉伸性好，缝迹平整，在某些场合（如拼接缝）也可起到防止织物边缘脱散的作用。,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bure

19、au Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,602 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,605 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyri

20、ght Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,607 线迹,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,缝型:叠缝,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY

21、 copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,搭接缝,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,包边缝,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETA

22、RY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,平缝,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,线迹与缝型疵点,Broken stitches 断线Sk

23、ipped stitches 跳针Tight stitches 线迹过紧Needle chew 露珠Loose stitches 线迹过松Excessive stitches 多余线迹Extra stitches 额外线迹Staggering stitches or slanted stitches 线迹扭曲、歪斜Messy stitches or snarled stitches 线迹杂乱Uneven stitch density 针密不匀A line of needle hole 针孔Run-off stitches 落坑线迹Needle damage 针损,“BUREAU VERITAS

24、 PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Feed dog mark 送布牙痕Thread fraying 缝线起毛Needle line 条花疵Uneven thread size 缝线条干不匀Insufficient seam allowance 缝份不足Insecure thread 缝线不牢Seams-twisted 扭骨Seams not aligned at cr

25、ossing seam 缝线对接偏离Seams-bowed or uneven 缝线弓起，不匀Open seam 缝线开口Pleated seam 缝线起裥Puckering 起皱Seam grin exposed 缝线露底Seam slippage 缝线滑移,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,线迹与缝型疵点,样品比较,“BUREAU V

26、ERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,3,考查点,与客供样比较客供样(Approved sample核可样,color swatch色样,trim card辅料样,and comment sheets意见卡)与规格要求比较客户订单或规格明细客户案卷或要求,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas

27、2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Packing 包装Style 款式Color 颜色Hand feel 手感Sewing thread 缝线Stitches and seam 线迹与缝型Accessory 辅件Label and hangtag 标签和吊卡,与客供样相比较,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOU

28、R ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,1.包装材料 胶袋,考贝纸,干燥剂,纸板,大头针,夹子,吊卡，衣架,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,包装检验,包装检验,2.折叠方式,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bu

29、reau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,色差检验,AATCC(American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists)美国纺织化学师与印染师协会标准,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUR

30、EAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,AATCC 灰卡,辅件,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Jeans button Jeans button tack hook,Jeans rivet Jeans rivet tack loop,辅件,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copy

31、right Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,辅件,Snap cap socket stud post,Open prong socket stud,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRIT

32、TEN CONSENT”.,Buckle hooks holders shoulder pads,Adjuster Cord stopper patches belt adjuster,辅件,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,Button Size纽扣规格1 lignes=1/40 inch,辅件,“BUREAU VERITAS PROP

33、RIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,4,手工检验,操作过程,从上到下.从左到右.从正面到

34、反面.从外边到里边,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,同时需要注意的有:1.颜色 2.包装3.成衣外观 a.匀称b.清洁c.线迹与缝线 d.布面e.成衣内里4.刺绣 印花5.配件,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSID

35、E YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,重点检验,疵点分类,Critical Defect:A defect that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe condition for an individual using the product or that is contravening against mandatory regulations.The product may endanger its user.危及健康安全产生影响使用功能完全

36、丧失大大伤害顾客的感情Major Defect:A defect likely to result in failure reducing the usability,value of the product and obvious appearance defects affecting the salability of the product.The product cannot be sold.不太对健康安全产生影响产品不适应遭顾客拒绝外观明显可以察觉出制造的缺陷使顾客产生反感情绪Minor Defect:A defect that doesnt reduce the usabilit

37、y of the product,but nevertheless the workmanship is beyond the defined quality.不影响产品使用仅对外观有微小影响但顾客不在意或不太察觉出,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,一般疵点位置划分(A):显著部位(B):非显著部位,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,成衣疵点分区,谢谢,“BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY copyright Bureau Veritas 2005 DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT”.,