adidas Group Color Manual-2006.docx

DearSupplier,Wearepleasedtoannouncethere-launchingofthenewadidasGroupColorManual.Thismanualhasbeenrevisedtotakeintoconsiderationbothrecentadvancesincolortechnologyandfuturedevelopmentsincolormanagementthatweforeseeinthenexttwotofiveyears.ThismanualcontainsCOlOrSPeCifiCatiOnSforallfabricsandgarmentsthataresuppliedtotheadidasGroup.ThesestandardsandprocesseshavebeendevelopedtoensurethatadidasGroupmerchandiserepresentsourcommitmenttohighqualityforourcustomerswhilstatthesametime,furtherimprovingourproductdevelopmentleadtimes.UponacceptinganorderfromadidasGroupyouareacknowledgingtomeetthecolorspecificationsasstatedinthismanual.Shouldyouhaveanyquestionsregardingthecontentsofthismanualypleasecontactthefollowing：IrisBakker-adidasGroup-HQHerzogenaurach+49-9132-845987iris.bakkeradidas.deChristineCollins-adidasGroup-Portland+1-971-234-4265christine.collinsadidasusAcknowledgementofReceiptfor2006adidasGroupColorManualPleasesignbelowandreturnthispagetotheadidasGroupofficeinyourregionBysigningyouareacknowledgingreceipt&compliancetothismanualSupplierName：(Pleaseprint)RecipientsName：(Pleaseprint)Signature：DateofReceipt：ASia-PaCifiCDeanLiou-AdidasSourcingLtd-MPCTaipei5/F99sec.2Jen-aiRoadTaipei,Taiwan10062R.O.C.Email：dean.liou(三)adidas.hkPhone：+886-2-23574285NorthandSoUthAmeriCaPaulaTurgeon-adidasInternational5055NorthGreeleyAvenuePortland,OR97217USAEmail：paula.turgeonadidasusPhone：+971-234-4265EUroPeDeryaCetin-adidasSourcingLtd-MPCIstanbulEskiBuyukdereCad.ParkPlazaNo.2234398MaslakzIstanbul-TurkeyEmail：derya.cetinadidas.trPhone：+90-212-3295533TableofContentsPageSeetiOnIntroductionII.T2&TiInstrument,Software&Accreditation5-6RequirementsIII.ColorStandards7-IV.EvaluationofColorAssessors9V.LightingCabinet10-11VI.InstrumentalColorMeasurementProcedures：12-14SpectrophotometerA. SpectrophotometerSettingsB. SpectrophotometerCalibrationC. SpectrophotometerMeasurementTechniqueVII.ApprovalViewingProcedureA. NumericalTolerancesB. PhysicalSampleViewingRequirements15-16VIII.Metamerism17IX.ImportantNotetotheSupplyBase18X.adidasGroupGlobalCoIorTooIsForms19-21XI.ColorContinuity22XII.BasicCoIorTheory23-32I. INTRODUcnONWezatadidasGroupvaluemaintainingahighlevelofqualityinourproductsandonlybyensuringthatourprocessesareaccuratelycommunicated,ourmethodsdocumentedandourspecificationsdefined,thisgoalwillbemet.Itisourobjectivetoclearlycommunicateourexpectationsandparameterstooursupplybase.Wewill,onacontinuousbase,evaluateandadoptourprocessesinordertoimproveproductquality.Wevalueourrelationshipswithoursupplybaseandrealizethatbyworkingtogetherwecanaccomplishourmutualgoalofprovidingqualityproductsandservicestoourcustomers.Aswebetterdefineourexpectations,weseektoestablishforoursuppliersaworkingrelationshipwhereperformanceisrewardedandtrustisestablished.ItistheadidasGroupPolicytocommunicatecolorandspecifycolorstandardsusingthe31pointspectraldatameasurementsystemandtocontrolcolorusingtheCMC2:1colorequationtogetherwiththeguidelinesandprocedurescontainedherein.Theinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementprocessworksonnumericaldataandtolerances,resultinginmoreefficientandobjectivecolordecisionsascomparedtovisualassessmentalone.adidasGroupofficesareequippedwithhighqualityDatacolorSF600+CTandSF600XSpectrophotometersandDatacolorTools,Envision&Tracksoftwareforcolormeasurement,evaluation,trackingandcommunication.Allcolorstandardsandsupplierssubmitsaremeasuredandstoredelectronicallyandsupplierperformancereportsaregeneratedtoprovideavarietyofdataincludingqualityoffirstsubmissions；approvalpercentagesandturntimes.ThemaingoaloftheadidasGroupColorManualincludesignificantlydecreasingthenumbersofcolorsubmissionsreceivedfromthesupplybasepriortoapprovalandreducingthetimeandcostassociatedwiththecolorprocess.Tosupportthisgoalwerequiresupplieraccreditationtohelpensureongoingaccuracyandconsistencyofcolorsubmissions.II. T2&TIINSTRUMENT,SOFTWARE&ACCREDrrATloNREQUIREMENTSTier2Suppliers(DyeMills)mustbeequippedwithbelowinstruments&softwareandmustensurethefollowingrequirements： ADatacolorSF600+CTorSF600XorDatacolor600Spectrophotometer.TheonlyotherspectrophotometermodelsacceptabletoadidasGroup(forsuppliersalreadyeuiDDedwithalternativehardware)aretheGretagMacbethCE7000A&C0l0ri7andtheMinolta3700D. DatacolorColortoolsQCsoftwareVersion3.12orhigher,orDatacoIorTooIsQCsoftwareVersion1.0orhigher DatacolorTracksoftware Anofficiallyapprovedlightingcabinet(seepage10)locatedinadarkroomorinacurtainedoffarea CabinetsneedtobefittedwithD65ArtificialDaylight,TL84GeneralStoreLight(Fn)andUVUltraviolet 1.ighttubesmustbereplacedevery2zooohoursor6months,whicheverissooner InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5 Anannualcalibration,maintenanceandcertificationofrequiredinstrumentsfromthemanufacturerorofficiallyapprovedservicepartnerismandatoryandcontinuousservicehistorymustbemaintained SuitablytrainedpersonnelwhounderstandboththeinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementprocessrequirementsandthevisualassessmentofadidasGroupasdocumentedwithinthismanual,whohavepassedtheFarnsworth-MunsellColorDiscriminationTest(score24orless)andwhohavebeenaccreditedinaccordancewithDatacolorA2C2AccreditationLevel2.TienSuppliers(GarmentMakers)mustbeequippedwithaminimumofbelowinstrumentsandmustensurethefollowingrequirements： Anofficiallyapprovedlightingcabinet(seepage10)locatedinadarkroomorinacurtainedoffarea CabinetsneedtobefittedwithD65ArtificialDaylightzTL84GeneralStoreLight(Fn)andUVUltraviolet 1.ighttubesmustbereplacedevery2,000hoursor6months,whicheverissooner InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5 Anannualcalibration；maintenanceandcertificationofrequiredinstrumentsfromthemanufacturerorofficiallyapprovedservicepartnerismandatoryandcontinuousservicehistorymustbemaintained Suitablytrainedpersonnelwhounderstandthevisualassessment(andpossiblytheinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementprocessrequirements)ofadidasGroupasdocumentedwithinthismanual,whohavepassedtheFarnsworth-MunsellColorDiscriminationTest(score24orless)andwhohavebeenaccreditedinaccordancewithDatacolorAiCiAccreditationLevel1.HlcolorstandardsAsetofColorStandards(adidasConstants&VariablesandReebokFoundation&Seasonal)arepurchasedbyoursupplybaseeachseason.StartingwiththenewSpringSummer2021season(SSo8),theColorStandardswillcontainboththe31pointspectraldataassuppliedthroughthemasterstandardQTXFileandpublishedontheDystarE-dyesWebsiteandafabriccolorstandardswatch.AuthorizationforaccesstotheDystarE-dyesWebsiteneedstobegrantedandapprovedbyadidasGroupHerzoHQ-HeadofGlobalMaterialQualityApparel.TheadidasGroupColorStandardsaredevelopedtoofferaprecisespecificationofthetargetcolorandhavethereforebeeninvestigatedonachievability.However,theremightstillbespecificcasesthatitisphysicallynoteasytoeitherachievetherequiredcolorwithexistingdyetechnologies,orachievetherequiredcolorandsimultaneouslycomplywithadidasGroupstandardsoflightandwashfastness.Inordertosupportoursupplybase,anin-depthinvestigationduringthedevelopmentofeachnewadidasGroupcolorpalettehasbeenmadeinordertodefinedepthofshade&colorfastnessachievability.Asuccessfulmatchisbasedontherecommended(notcompulsory)dyeingrecipefromDyStarzandotheralternaterecipesshouldbeconsideredtoachievethemostcommerciallyacceptablematchtothecolorstandardtakingintoaccountbothfastnessperformanceandmetamerism.ForTier2SuppliersitismandatorythatthespectraldataisusedasthemasterstandardthroughouttheentiremanufacturingprocessasitisagainstthisstandardthatallcolorsubmissionsatadidasGroupareevaluated.Tier2SupplierswithacomputerizedrecipepredictionandQCsystemshouldimportthespectraldataelectronicallyfromthesuppliedQTXfile.Thedatasuppliedshouldthenbeverifiedviathechecksumfigureandstoredpermanentlywithinthesoftware.TheadidasGroupphysicalmasterstandardisforvisualevaluationandcomparisonpurposesonly,andundernocircumstances,shoulditbere-measuredbytheTier2supplier.Tier1SuppliersshouldalwaysusetheadidasGroupphysicalmasterstandardastheirprimaryreferenceforvisualcolorassessmentthroughouttheentireproductdevelopmentprocess,notthefirstapprovedbulksubmission.GeneralReqUirememSOnadidasGrOUPCOlOrStandardSAllpartiesinvolvedinthecolorapprovalprocessmustpurchaseacompletemasteradidasGroupColorStandard(adidasConstants&VariablesandReebokFoundation&Seasonal)throughtheadidasGroupColor&TrendTeams.ThesemasterstandardsshouldSOtbeCUtorredistributed.Thestandardsshouldbestoredinadryandcleanenvironmentandatnotimeleftexposedtodirectsunlightorinanyotherareawheresoilingordamagecanoccur.MEVALUATlONOFCOLORASSESSoRSAlladidasGroup&adidasGroupSupplyBaseColorAssessorsmusthavecolordiscriminationskillsrepresentedbyascoreof24orlessusingtheFarnsworth-Munsell100HueTest.Farnsworth-MunsellooHueTestThetestconsistsofasetoffourtrayscontaining85removablecoloredcapswithsubtledifferencesinhue.Thesubjectmustplacethecolorcapsinhueorder.Farnsworth-Munsell100HueTestTheSCOringSyStemisasfollows:0-16Superiordiscriminationofcolor20-100Averagediscriminationofcolor100andaboveLowdiscriminationofcolorGenerally,approximately68%ofthepopulationachievesanaveragediscriminationrating.16%havesuperiordiscriminationand16%havelow.WithintheadidasGroup&adidasGroupSupplyBase；onlypeopleswhoaregradedbyaFarnsworth-Munsell100HueTestscoreof24orlessareallowedtoassesscolors.V.LIGHTINGCABINETThefollowinglightingcabinetsareadidasGroupapproved：VerivideCAC6ozCAC120orCAC150.DatacolorCMB2028/2540GretagMacbethSpectralight111orJudge11AtlasVarioluxThefollowingLightingCabinetinstructions&requirementsareobligatory： InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5. Theinteriorsurfaceofthecabinetshouldberepaintedonceayear. 1.ightingcabinetsarerequiredtobefittedwiththefollowinglamps：D65,TL84(Fn)andV. Itisrequiredthatonlylampssuppliedbytheoriginalmanufacturerofthelightingcabinetbeusedandtheseshouldbereplacedonatimelybasisaccordingtotheuser'smanual,maximumevery6monthsorevery2z000hours. Pleaseensurethecabinetandtubesarekeptcleanandfreefromdust. TheUVlampshouldnotbeonwhenassessingcolor. TheUVlampisusedforassessingtheeffectoffluorescentwhiteningagents(FWAzs). Thelightcabinetshouldbeserviced&calibratedonanannualbasisandaservicelogkeptforinspection.D65istheprimarylightsourceandTL84(Fn)isthesecondarylightsourceforallinstrumentalandvisualcolorevaluationsatadidasGroup.LightSourceUseForRequiredResultPrimaryLightSourceD65ArtificialDaylightAllswatchesVerygood&closestmatchSecondaryLightSourceTL84(Fn)GeneralStoreLightAllswatches,tocheckformetamerismVerygood&closestmatchReferenceUltraviolet(UV)ToCheckforopticalbrighteners/fluorescentdyesDonotuseformatchingVUNSTRUMENTALCOLORMEASUREMENTPRoCEDURES:SPEcrRoPHoTOMETERadidasGroupishighlyrecommendingandmovingtowardselectroniccommunicationbyusinginstrumentalcolormeasurementtoaddsupportandquantitativevaliditytothecolorassessmentprocess.Reliablecolormeasurementprovidesthebasisforcolorapprovalsbynumericaltolerance-aprocesswhichismoreefficientandcompletelyobjectivewhencomparedtovisualassessmentalone.adidasofficesareequippedwithhighqualityinstruments&software(DatacolorToolszEnvision&Track)forcolormeasurement.Colorimetricdataarecalculatedandarchivedusingthelatestcolordifferenceandtolerancemethods.Allsuppliersubmissionsaremeasuredandstoredelectronicallyforperiodicreporting.Historicalreportsaregeneratedwhichprovideeachdivisionwithinadidaswithsupplierperformancesummaries.Thequalityoffirstsubmissionmatches,approvalpercentages,andturnaroundtimesonlabdipsareamongthemanydatawhichareavailable.A. SpectrophotometerSettingsThespectrophotometershouldbelocatedinacleanandconditionedenvironmentwithaconstanttemperatureof20degreesC+/-2degreesandaconstanthumidityof65%+/-2withoutcondensation.Thespectrophotometershouldalsoundergoanannualcalibration,maintenance&certificationfromthemanufacturerorofficiallyapprovedservicepartner.B. SpectrophotometerCalibrationInstrumentalcolormeasurementwithinadidasGroupisperformedusingtheDatacolorSpectraflash6oo+CT/SF6ooXorDatacolor6oospectrophotometer+Datacolor6oo.Inordertoensurecompliance,thefollowingsystemcalibrationconfigurationmustbeused：ColorDifferenceCMC(2:1)SpecularGlossIncluded(SCI)UVcomponentIncluded(100%UV)IlluminantsPrimary:D65Secondary:TL84Observer10degreeApertureLAVC1JiIihmfinnRvrprvrRhnraC. SpectrophotometerMeasurementTechniqueSuppliersmustconductcolormeasurementswhichcomplywiththosebeingdonebyadidasGroup.Themannerinwhichsamplesaremeasuredgreatlyinfluencesthecolorimetricoutput.ThefollowingmethodhasbeendevelopedatadidasGroupandfoundtobehighlyreproducible.ConditioningofthesamplespriortomeasurementBeforemeasurementandvisualassessment,allfabricswatchesmustbeconditionedforatleast4hoursinanatmosphereof65%+/-2%relativehumidity(noncondensing),atatemperatureof20degreesC+/-2degreesCandexposedtoambientlight.Thiscanbedoneinacontrolledlaboratoryenvironmentbutisbestachievedbyplacingthesamplestobemeasuredinaconditioningcabinet.SamplesmustbeconditionedfromadrystateTndmeasuredimmediatelyafterremovalfromthecabinet,adidashaveapprovedtheDatacolorConditionerunitwhichprovidesanacceleratedsampleconditioningtimeofapproximately10minutestogetherwithpreciseandconsistentparametercontrols,adidasalsoapprovestheVindonScientificconditioningcabinet.SpectrophotometersamplepresentationandhandlingAllfabricswatchesaretobefoldedinsufficientnumberoflayers(aminimumoffourlayers)topreventtransmissionoflight.Theappropriatenumberoffoldscanbecheckedbymeasuringthefabricwiththeblacktileandthenwiththewhitetilebehindthesample.Thereadingsshouldbethesame.Ifthereadingsdiffer,thenumberoflayersmustbeincreasedandthemeasurementsrepeated.SpectrophotometerMeasurementandOrientationofSamplesThesamplemustbesmoothandwithoutcreasesandthecommercialfacealwaysmeasured.Thesampleshouldnotprotrudeintothemeasuringsphereofthespectrophotometer.Optimumresultsareobtainedbytakingfourreadsondifferentareasofthefabric,andalsorotatingthefabric900betweeneachread.Theorientationwithrespecttothetextureoftheswatchshouldresultinmeasurementstakenatthe90180270；and3600(oroo).Thefourreadsareautomaticallyaveragedbythesoftwareandstored.Indicatesribdirection>VII.APPROVALVlEWlNGPRoCEDUREFirStAPPrOValReferenCeForeachlab-dipand/orbulksubmission,thespectrophotometerreadingsshouldbecomparedagainstthespectraldataassuppliedthroughthemasterstandardQTXfileandonlyreadingswithinthenumericaltolerancesareacceptedasthefirstapprovalreference.SeeOndAPPrOValReferenCePhysicalsamplesforsubmissionmustasasecondapprovalreferencepassvisuallyagainstthecolormasterstandardforboththeD65andTL84illuminantsandshouldnotexhibitsignificantmetamerism.A.NumericalTolerancesTypeofSampleBeingSubmittedCMC