葡萄酒品尝学课件.ppt

Chapter 4 Aroma Characteristics & Aroma Analysis of Wine,Wine Tasting,By Prof. Yanlin Liu,李华，葡萄酒品尝学，科学出版社，2006. pp31-67Emile Peynaud：The Taste of WineThe Art and Science of Wine Appreciation. Michael Schuster translated. United States: The Wine Appreciation Guild (Publishers) LTD., 1987，pp45-64,Reading assignment,Chap. 4 Aroma Characteristics and Aroma Analysis of Wine,Research advance of wine aroma 葡萄酒的香气研究概要Characters of wine aroma 葡萄酒的香气特点Aroma substances of wine 葡萄酒的呈香物质Classification of wine aromas 葡萄酒的香气分类Tasting techniqueAroma analysis品尝技术-香气分析Tasting words- Aroma 品尝词汇-关于香气的描述,Research advance of wine aroma葡萄酒香气研究概要,Development of analysis instruments 分析仪器的发展Quali-quantitative analysis of odor 气味物质的定性定量分析Odor substances and quality of fragrance 呈香物质与香气质量Odor consistency and quality of fragrance 香气浓度与香气质量Interaction of Odor substances呈香物质的相互作用Electronic nose电子鼻,GC-sniff,GC-sniff,GC-sniff,Aroma Characteristics if Wine葡萄酒香气的特点,Richness丰富性Variability变化性Complexity复杂性Materiality and immateriality有形与无形Mystery 神秘性 neither stable nor persistent. Instability不稳定性 unnpersistent非持续性State of dissociation and combination游离态与结合态Apperceive and characterization香气的感知与描述,Smell,200-800 aromatics in wineTo smell anything, it must be in a gaseous state to reach our receptor cells, dissolved in the mucous lining粘液外膜 and stimulate nerve endingsdifference in smelling an odor is between exposure from the air and exposure from a liquid (wine glass design),Smell,in order to smell, we must breathe in more than normal20% of all available odors reach receptors during normal breathingonly 2% actually gets through the nose to reach the sensory patch,Smell,remember to maintain the same techniques always in regards to breathing in deeply for assessmenttrying to avoid fatigue on the senses by spacing out intake of the odor,Smell,humans have the ability to detect 10,000 different odorsthis ability is linked by our health, our own individual response level, environmental factorsdifference in perception can vary by a factor as much as 1 hundred thousand from person to person,Olfactory signals,The sense of smell recognizes and classifies volatile products only if they are soluble in the olfactory mucosa粘膜 and have a smell. Odors are only detected in a gas state. Olfactory sensations are neither stable nor persistent.,ODOUR-BEARING SUBSTANCES,When you pour wine into a glass there is a balance in the distribution of volatile molecules between those in a liquid and those in a gas phase. This balance depends on the substances volatility coefficient系数, on the evaporative surface and its rate of renewal and also on temperature.,ODOUR-BEARING SUBSTANCES,AlcoholsAldehyde compounds醛类化合物Fatty acidsEstersOrganic acidPhenolic substances (Polyphenols) and terpene萜烯类,Alcohols,Alcohols with the largest molecules are the most aromatic of all. Paradoxically, it is the lightest substances that are the least volatile.,呈香物质(气味物质),气味物质即给我们以嗅觉刺激的物质。不同种类、不同浓度的气味物质以不同的比例组合起来，就构成了千变万化的气味。 目前已鉴定出葡萄酒中的呈香物质，其分别归属于醇类、酯类、有机酸、羰基化合物、酚类、萜烯类化合物。,呈香物质,（一）醇类 乙醇、丙醇、丁醇、异丁醇、戊醇、己醇、庚醇、辛醇、苯甲醇、月桂醇、 甘油,呈香物质(二)酯类, 葡萄酒中的酯类物质是酵母发酵的副产物。酯类的气味类似水果香气（如香蕉）、化学品（如指甲油）及酸味糖果等的气味。 乙酸异戊酯：强烈的水果香气，似香蕉味、梨的甜酸味； 辛酸乙酯：令人愉快的花果香气，杏子香气； 已酸乙酯：强烈的菠萝、香蕉的香气。,呈香物质 (三)有机酸, 除少部分挥发性有机酸来源于葡萄浆果外，葡萄酒中大部分有机酸则主要是发酵的副产物，由脂肪酸引起的香气则较为稳定，其气味类似肥皂、蜡烛和硬脂精等，低碳酸（如甲酸、乙酸、丙酸、丁酸、戊酸、异戊酸等）往往尖酸、刺激、不愉快。,呈香物质 (四)羰基化合物,乙醛丙醛异丁醛：香蕉味、甜瓜味、绿叶味茴香醛：山楂花香2-丁酮：清漆味2-己酮：酮味，干酪味桂皮醛： 刺鼻的药香，辣味乙偶姻：扁桃香气,呈香物质(五)酚类和萜烯类,苯酚、甲酚、酪氨酚萜品醇：松木味，类萜烯味苦樟醇：典型的花香金合欢醇：特有的花香香叶醇：玫瑰花香气，有桃味橙花醇氧化物：新鲜、甜香似玫瑰香气,香味物质解析,名称 香味特性 含量(毫克/升)乙酸乙酯 使酒发酸变味，有刺激性 4.5190乙酸异戍酯 香焦味、熟瓜香味、酸果糖味 0.156.1醋酸苯乙酯 玖瑰花茶味 0.25.1苯乙醇 玖瑰花香 19183苯乙醛，乙基苯醇 茉莉花茶香 0.150辛酸乙酯. 癸酸乙酯 肥皂、蜡烛味 0.96己酸乙酯 苹果、香焦香味 1.5牦牛儿醇 玖瑰花香 0.05十一烷酸内酯 桃子香味 0.11.2香草缩醛 香子兰香味 0.25乙醛 苹果香、清凉感 0.120,香味物质解析,名称 香味特性 量(毫克/升)已醇 生青树叶子味 315异丁醇 植物草味、有热感 28170辛醇 蘑菇气味 18异戊醇 花蕊香气 520丁酰化物 塑料溶剂气味 0.01丁酸乙酯 焦臭、奶酪臭 0.0410丁酸 油漆味 0.4 苯乙烯 溶剂味 0.1,微量物质（零点几至几十毫克）,苯乙酸 蜂蜜香 乙偶烟 扁桃（巴旦杏味）茴香醛 山楂花香苯乙醛 苦杏仁香肉桂醛 桂皮辛香苯丙醛 丁香花香氰醇苯甲醛 草莓香丁二酮 榛子、奶油香甘草醛 甘草香己二烯醇 老鹳草、天竺葵气味己烯醇、己烯醛 青草气味里那醇 玖瑰木香里那醇氧化物 樟脑气味胡椒醛 刺槐、天芥菜味甲基邻氨基苯酯 桔子香、很浓花蕊香,THE CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURS,The olfactory sense is extremely sensitive. Our olfactory sensitivity to many chemical substances far exceeds that of laboratory reagents.,THE CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURS,There have been many attempts at odor classification. The one we shall introcuce has ten. listing those odors regularly encountered in wines: animal, balsamic香脂, woody, chemical, spicy, empyreumatic烧焦的, ester, floral, fruity and vegetal.,Animal smell,The animal group of smells refers on the one hand to the musky character of some aromatic grape varieties and on the other to the smells of meat, even game that one finds in some old wines.,Balsamic and woody,The balsamic group (from the word balm) comprises those odors related to pine, resin and incense薰香 smellsThe woody group to those deriving from the evolution of tannins or from oak storage casks.,Chemical odors and ester group,Chemical odors come from acetic acid and hydrogen sulphide, for example. The ester group consists of smells related to acetic esters (ethyl esters and the esters of higher alcohols) and to the esters of fatty acids, all by-products of alcoholic fermentation.,Spicy bouquet and empyreumatic group,A spicy bouquet is sometimes found in certain fine wines. The empyreumatic group are burnt, smoky, roasted odors.,Floral, fruity and vegetal categories are more commonly in young than in old wines. Lime blossom, rose, and vine flowers, blackcurrant, raspberry and peach, grassy and herby smells, are all smells regularly encountered in the widely varied aromas of wine.,Floral, fruity and vegetal,OLFACTORY MEASUREMENT,The only means we have of measuring the odor of any substance is a physiological one using our own sense of smell as the apparatus.,The aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in nature,Flowers In white wines, springtime wild flowers, and in reds the perfumes of the more strongly colored flowers (rose, violet etc.) Fruit Apricot, banana, apple, lemon and pineapple in white wines; strawberry, raspberry, peach and cherry in red wines,The aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in nature,Dried fruit and nuts Usually the smell of dried fruit appears with age. Toasted almonds in whites, dried figs in reds. Sweet flavoring Vanilla, aniseed Herbs and leaves Fresh mint, pine, tobaccoToasted Toast, coffee, cocoa, tea,The aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in nature,Spices and herbs Pepper laurel, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, thyme, basil, juniper Truffles Food and drink Beer butter cider honey cognacOther aromas Leather amber animal,THE CLASSIFICATION OF ODORS8,(一)动物气味 animal (二)香脂气味 balsam (三)烧焦气味 toast(四)化学气味 chemical (ester)(五)香料气味 spicy(六)花香 floral(七)果香 fruity (八)植物与矿物气味 vegetal and mineral (woody)气味的分类香气分类是香气分析的基础,气味的分类香气分类是香气分析的基础,(一)动物气味 (二)香脂气味(三)烧焦气味(四)化学气味(五)香料气味(六)花香(七)果香(八)植物与矿物气味,(一)动物气味,野味（所有野兽、野禽的气味）脂肪味腐败（肉类）味肉味麝香味猫尿味Muscat,在葡萄酒中：主要是麝香（源与芳香型品种）肉味、脂肪味（成年老酒）腐败味：微生物破败,(二)香脂气味指芳香植物的香气,所有树脂刺柏香子兰松油安息香,In wine：各种树脂的气味,(三)烧焦气味,烟熏烤干面包巴旦杏仁干草,咖啡木头动物皮松油是葡萄酒成熟过程中单宁变化或溶解橡木成分形成的（焦、烟熏除外）,(四)化学气味 不同程度损坏葡萄酒的质量,酒精丙酮醋酚苯硫乳酸碘,氧化酵母微生物,(五)香料气味包括所有用作作料的香料,月桂胡椒桂皮姜干草薄荷存在于一些优质、陈酿时间长的红酒中,(六)花香 包括所有的花香,堇菜山楂玫瑰柠檬茉莉,椴树葡萄鸢尾天竺葵杨槐,(七)果香 包括所有的果香。常见的有：,覆盆子（raspberry）樱桃（cherry）草莓石榴醋栗杏桃橙（citrus fruits）,苹果梨香蕉无花果核桃黑加仑子（black currants） 红加仑子（red currants）干果：氧化陈酿酒中出现,(八) 植物与矿物气味,主要有青草、落叶、块根、蘑菇、湿青苔、湿土、青叶等气味,Aromas in white wine-essence,Fruity Aromas:1 Lemon2 Grapefruit3 Pineapple4 Lychee5 Muscat6 Pear,Aromas in white wine-essence,Floral Aromas:7 Hawthorn山楂花8 HoneyVegetal aroma:9 Blackcurrant bud,Animal aroma: 10 ButterToasty aromas:11 Toast12: Roasted hazelnut榛子,Aromas in red wine-essence,Fruity Aromas:1 Strawberry2 Raspberry3 Blackcurrant4 Blackberry5 Cherry,Floral Aromas:6 VioletToasty aroma:12 Smoked，coffee,Aromas in red wine-essence,Vegetal aromas:7 Green pepper8 Truffle 块菌9 Liquorice 甘草10 Vanilla 香草11 Pepper,Truffle世界珍味之王黑白松露,Truffle是生长在地下，尤其是橡树根部的一种外生菌块。通常是一年生的天然真菌类植物。大约有30多种不同的truffle，产地分布在意大利，克罗地亚，法国，西班牙等国。与香槟，鱼子酱一起，被誉为世界上三大珍味之王。 在众多的种类中，更以白松露、黑松露是最美味的。由于松露对于生长环境非常挑剔，只要阳光、水量或土壤的酸碱值稍有变化就无法生长，这也是为何松露如此稀有的缘故。,Oak and Wine-essence,1 Oak: Sample is Natural extract of medium toasted oak chips.2 Green wood :3 Coconut 椰子4 Clove 丁香5 Vanilla pod 香草,Oak and Wine,6 Woody-spicy7 New leather8 Pharmaceutical notes,9 Toast10 Furfural 糠醛11 Liquorice 甘草Smoky,Faults in wine,Category1 Vegetal2 Rotten apple 3 Vinegar4 Glue5 Soap6 Sulphur,Origin Harvest OxygenSulphur,Faults in wine,7 Rotten egg8 Onion9 Cauliflower 花椰菜10 Horse11 Mouldy-earthy12 Cork,Origin PhenolFungi,Aromas-essence,1 Apricot2 Acacia 杨槐花3 Bitter almond4 Pineaplle5 Anise 八角6 Hawthorn 山楂花,Aromas-essence,7 Banana8 Butter9 Cork10 Cocoa11 Cinnamon12 Coffee,11桂皮,Aromas-essence,13 Caramel14 Black currant15 Cheery16 Mushroom17 Oak18 Lemon,13焦糖14黑加仑子,Aromas-essence,19 Civet20 Quince21 Sweet-briar22 Mown hay23 Fern24 Strawberry,香猫蔷薇禾草蕨,Aromas-essence,25 Raspberry26 Smoked27 Geranium28 Clove29 Tar30 Iodine,27 天竺葵28 丁香29 柏油30 碘,Aromas-essence,31 Muscat32 Mint33 Mercaptan34 Honey35 Musk36 Hazelnut,33硫醇35麝香36榛子,Aromas-essence,37 Walnut38 Orange39 Peony40 Pine41 Pear42 Pepper,42胡椒,Aromas-essence,43 Green pepper44 Apple45 Plum46 Licorice47 Rose48 Sulfur,46甘草,Aromas-essence,49 Thyme50 Linden51 Truffle52 Vanilla53 Violet54 Vinegar,49百里香50椴51块菌52香草,GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMA,Vinification may be said to reveal the primary aroma concealed within the fruit, for wine smells more of fruit than the grape itself. There are various explanations for this phenomenon; firstly during maceration the aromatic elements, contained mainly in the skin, pass into the wine. Furthermore, fermentation serves to release the odour-bearing constituents and so to reveal the latent潜在的 aromas.,GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMA,Sauvignon Blanc has a very specific smell, floral, musky, smoky with a slightly raw herbaceousness suggesting bruised leaves, in keeping with its derivation from the French sauvage.When you bite into the thick-skinned, golden Sauvignon grape you can smell this particular odour, albeit rather weakly; similarly the freshly squeezed juice of the grape has relatively little smell, and in the mouth, too, its aromatic quality is limited.,GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMA,It is only twenty or thirty seconds after swallowing the juice that you suddenly experience a powerful aromatic rush at the back of the mouth as the Sauvignon fragrance returns. Doubtless saliva reacts with and releases the Sauvignon essence which is present in the grape in a relatively odourless form.,GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMA,The winemaker may notice another fact which is explained by a similar phenomenon, that of hydrolysis: -it sometimes happens that a Sauvignon wine, when it has just finished its fermentation, has little specific Sauvignon character and is disappointing to taste; -yet a month later it shows well and is remarkably aromatic.-葡萄酒的发酵是一个显香和增香过程。,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,The aroma of Pinot Noir defies description as does that of Cabernet Sauvignon. It suggests a blend of fruits (blackcurrant and raspberry), often softer and sweeter because its tannin is less obtrusive, but it is also more one-dimensional in character, and develops less than Cabernet Sauvignon. It attains an incomparable quality in the premiers crus wines of the Cte de Nuits and Cte de Beaune; no other site in the world suits this grape so well. It lasts well into extreme old age, and the wine remains good for as long as its fruit .,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,The Chardonnay grape has a powerful aroma and wide range of styles: it is light and lively in champagne from the Cte des Blancs, it is fuller, more vigorous and harder in Chablis, requiring four or five years in bottle to mature. Like red burgundies, Chardonnays are kept and develop in oak barrels after malolactic fermentation.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,White burgundy is one of the rare-white wines, perhaps the only one, which can stand this fermentation. One other area where Chardonnay does well is in the mountains of the Napa Valley in California.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,The Riesling grape reigns supreme in the terraced valleys of the Rhine and its tributaries. Here it grows on slopes whose exceptional exposition means it can survive the vagaries of the continental climate.The Rhines right bank is said to produce the finer wines, but in good vintages Alsace also produces great Rieslings.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,Riesling is one of the four noble varieties whose wines have had a worldwide reputation for many generations. The Riesling is also found in Austria, in Italy on the lower, south-facing slopes of the Alps, in Yugoslavia and it followed the Anglo-Saxons to South Africa, Australia and California.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,Sweet and gentle or sharp and lively, but always light and delicate, Riesling makes wines of exquisite fragrance, perfect models for todays whites. There is no other white grape variety whose bouquet varies so much according to the soil in which it is grown.The smell of broom, green and sweet, is sometimes suggested as a touchstone for the Riesling aroma, but it can also smell of peach blossom or the vine in flower; grown on schist in the Mosel, it is somewhat smoky, even tarry.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,In the same region, the Riesling is surrounded by the Sylvaner, the Traminer and the latters most aromatic form, the Gewrztraminer. If the aroma of the first is quite straightforward, the other two might be called somewhat extrovert in olfactory terms. For the novice they have the advantage of being easy to recognize. This opulence of bouquet can certainly be very appealing even if it does lack finesse.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,Muscat grapes provide the best illustration for the notion of primary aroma because their fruit is the most highly perfumed of all, and the Muscat aroma has a universal appeal. The Muscat aroma is also the one that has been most closely studied, and whose constituents are the best understood even though they cannot be reproduced exactly by artificial means.,GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS,Its specific smell is due to terpenes, a family of chemical substances mainly found in the essential mis of many plants. Grape juice and wine from the different Muscat varieties contain 0.5 to 3,0 mg/l of terpenes whereas the threshold for their perception starts at only 0.1 mg/l. The same terpenes are also found in other aromatic varieties such as Riesling, Silvaner, Mller-Thurgau and Gewrztraminer, still above the identification threshold but in much lower concentrations.,AROMA AND BOUQUET,There is often confusion over the terms of aroma and bouquet. Some would say it is only white wines which have aroma, and red wines which have bouquet. But it does not hold true for all wines. A ten-year-old Montrachet is all bouquet, a Beaujolais Nouveau all aroma.,AROMA AND BOUQUET,It seems best to use aroma to designate the sum of odour elements in young winesand to use bouquet for the smells acquired through ageing, which develop gradually over the course of time.,Primary aroma,Primary aroma is the original aroma, intrinsic to the